Addis Ababa, Ethiopia — Meskel Square, the iconic heart of Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, is a space where history, culture, and modernity converge. Since its inception in the 1960s, the square has evolved into the city’s most significant public space, a place where the past and present of Ethiopia’s social, political, and religious life intersect.
Originally established to host the annual Meskel celebration, which commemorates the finding of the True Cross by Roman Empress Helena, Meskel Square is more than just a physical space; it is a living testament to Ethiopia’s rich heritage. Every September 26th, the square is transformed into a spiritual epicenter, where thousands gather to witness the lighting of the demera, a large bonfire symbolizing the cross’s revelation. This celebration, inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage site in 2013, continues to draw believers, dignitaries, and tourists from around the world.
However, the story of Meskel Square is not just about religious festivities. Its very location and design have been shaped by the tides of history. Before 1961, Meskel was celebrated near Kidus Giorgis Church, one of Addis Ababa’s early development nodes. The shift to what is now Meskel Square was initiated by Emperor Haile Selassie, who saw the naturally sloping topography and open land near Kidus Estifanos Church as ideal for the celebrations.
Over the years, the square has been defined by its surroundings, including architectural landmarks like the Imperial Insurance Company Building and Africa Hall. The area grew in prominence, becoming a central axis in the city with the construction of the new Haile Selassie Airport in 1962. The square was officially named Meskel Square in 1963, solidifying its role as a key public space.
The 1974 revolution brought dramatic changes to Meskel Square. The communist Derg regime, seeking a grand space for military parades, renamed it Revolution Square. The square’s expansion was overseen by Hungarian architect Károly Polónyi and Ethiopian engineer Makonnen Mulat. With seating for 400,000 people and a podium that hosted figures like Fidel Castro, Revolution Square became a place of power and intimidation, a stark contrast to the public ownership it once symbolized.
After the fall of the Derg in 1991, the square reclaimed its original name. The Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) era saw the construction of the Red Terror Martyrs’ Memorial Museum in 2010, a poignant reminder of the atrocities committed during the Derg years. The museum, along with other modifications, aimed to reintegrate the square into the urban fabric of Addis Ababa.
In recent years, Meskel Square has undergone significant renovation as part of the Beautifying Sheger initiative led by Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed. The square’s design, spearheaded by Ethiopian architect Bisrat Kifle, has retained its cascading steps and central plaza while introducing modern amenities such as underground parking, public toilets, and refreshment areas. The renovation has revitalized the space, making it more accessible and secure, with lighting and security measures ensuring the safety of all visitors.
However, these improvements have come at a cost. The introduction of an entrance fee, albeit modest, has sparked concerns about the square’s accessibility. Once a free and open space for all, Meskel Square now poses barriers to those unable to afford the fee. While the renovations have addressed many infrastructural issues, the loss of spontaneous gatherings and daily activities like jogging and aerobics has raised questions about the square’s role in the community.
As Addis Ababa continues to grow, the importance of free and accessible public spaces cannot be overstated. Meskel Square, with its deep historical roots and cultural significance, remains a vital part of the city’s identity. It is crucial that this space not only serves as a venue for organized events but also as a vibrant, living part of the city where residents can gather, celebrate, and connect.
In a city that desperately needs public spaces, Meskel Square should continue to be a place of inclusivity and community, reflecting the spirit and resilience of Addis Ababa and its people.
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